Updated28/08/2025
Indoor hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) are ideal for bringing colour and fragrance into your home at Christmas.
Forcing the hyacinth bulbs to flower early was made popular in Victorian times, and is a method still employed today by gardeners who can’t wait for spring. Leaving the bulbs to develop their roots in glass vases is a great, modern look for your home.
When to start for Christmas flowering
To force bulbs, you need to mimic the natural conditions of winter and spring to fool the bulbs into flowering. First, it needs to be kept cool and dark, and then brought into light and warmth, like spring weather.
- Begin in late September to mid-October with prepared bulbs for Christmas week blooms.
- Expect roughly eight to ten weeks in cool, dark conditions, then two to three weeks to finish indoors.
- Cooler rooms slow development: warmer rooms speed it. Stagger start dates for a longer display.

What you need:
- Prepared hyacinth bulbs labelled for indoor forcing.
- Hyacinth glasses or narrow-neck vases that hold bulbs above the water.
- Clean water and labels.
- Gloves for handling bulbs.
Recommended Hyacinths for forcing
- Reliable choices include ‘Pink Pearl’, ‘Anna Marie’, ‘Delft Blue’, ‘Carnegie’, and ‘Jan Bos’.
- Choose firm, large bulbs for the strongest flower spikes and scent.
Step One: Prepare the Hyacinth Bulbs
To save time, you can buy ‘prepared’ bulbs. This means they have been chilled and are ready to plant up.
If you are preparing your own bulbs, simply place them in a refrigerator drawer for at least five weeks. Keep them away from food produce, and keep checking on them. They are ready when they start to sprout.

Hyacinth care tips
- Keep bulbs away from ripening fruit during chilling. Ethylene from fruit can affect flowering.
- Store bulbs dry while chilling; do not let them sit in moisture.
- Aim to start chilling by early September if you are preparing bulbs yourself.
Step Two: Fill the Vase
Your vase should have a narrow neck that will support the bulb, making sure it doesn’t drop down into the water. If you only have wider vases, you can fill the base with some pebbles to ensure the bulb is supported.
Fill the vase with clean water to the neck and put the bulb in. It should sit snugly just above the water. The roots will grow down to reach it. Don’t let the base of the bulb sit in stagnant water, or it may rot.
Hyacinth care tips
- Maintain the water level just below the bulb base so only roots touch water.
- Refresh cloudy water and rinse the vase if algae appears.
- A small lump of charcoal helps reduce odours and keeps the water clear.
Step Three: Bring the Bulbs to Flower
First, place the vase in a cool spot away from bright light. This allows the leaves to develop and green up. Then you can move it close to a window in warmer surroundings. Choose a sheltered spot free from temperature fluctuations like draughts or radiators.
If the leaves develop but the flowers don’t, move the pots back to a dark, cool spot for a day or two before bringing them back to the warmth. Remember to top up or replace the water periodically to keep the plant healthy.
Hyacinth care tips
- Aim for about 9°C during the cool, dark phase. Move indoors when shoots reach around 4–5cm.
- Start in a cool room, then move to a brighter and slightly warmer room once the leaves turn green.
- Avoid radiators and direct sun. Even temperatures give sturdier stems.
After Flowering: Hyacinth care
- Let the foliage die back naturally in bright light.
- When leaves yellow, plant the bulbs in the garden at twice their depth.
- They may skip a year, but usually settle into normal spring flowering outdoors.
Plant Troubleshooting
- Leaves but no flower: The cool period was too short, or the room is too warm. Return to cool, dark conditions for a couple of days.
- Bulb rots: Water touched the bulb base or was not refreshed. Lower the level and replace the water.
- Floppy stems: Temperatures are too high, or light is low. Move to a cooler, brighter spot.
- Short spikes: Bulbs matured too quickly. Next time, extend the cool phase by a week.
Styling and Display Ideas
- Group three or five vases for impact on a mantel or dining table.
- Mix colours for a festive look or choose one variety for a classic scheme.
- Stagger start dates by a week for continuous bloom through December and the New Year.
- Hide vase necks with moss, ribbon, or a ring of evergreen stems.

Safety Note
Wear gloves when handling bulbs, as they may irritate skin. And keep bulbs away from pets and children. Ingestion can cause stomach upset.
And for an even quicker winter flower fix…
Why not try waxed amaryllis bulbs? These specially selected bulbs are covered with a wax coating and can bloom even without water. They’ll begin to grow as soon as you get them home, and you can expect beautiful blooms within about a month. They look fantastic too, as the wax coating often comes in a range of different colours, and some look just like Christmas baubles. Arrange a few in a large bowl or glass vase for a spectacularly unique table centrepiece.
Tip – Place waxed amaryllis in bright light. Rotate every few days for straight stems.

For more great gardening advice, make sure you head to my YouTube Channel. Make sure you’re subscribed with notifications on so you don’t miss any of my new videos.
Frequently Asked Questions
1 – When should I start hyacinths to flower on Christmas Day?
Start prepared bulbs in late September or early to mid-October, adjusting for how warm your home is.
2 – Do I need prepared bulbs?
Yes, for reliable Christmas timing, choose bulbs labelled prepared for indoor forcing.
3 – How high should the water be?
Keep water just below the bulb base. Roots should reach the water, but the bulb must stay dry.
4 – My leaves are up but there is no flower. What now?
Give a brief return to cool, dark conditions, then move back to a cool, bright room.
5 – Can I replant forced bulbs outside?
Yes. After flowering and die-back, plant them in the garden for spring displays in future years.
Leave A Comment